What Are Hawaiian Jewelry?

When people think of Hawaiian jewelry, the gold bangle with black enamel lettering usually comes to mind. This type of jewelry, also known as Hawaiian heirloom jewelry, was made popular by the last monarch of Hawaii, Queen Lili'uokalani. Beginning in the late 1700's and throughout the 1800's, Europeans sailed the Hawaiian Islands. The isolated island lifestyle ended and many natives adapted to the new ideas and fashion of sailors and missionaries. One person in particular was highly influenced by the English culture. Princess Lili'uokalani, born in 1838 was educated at the Royal School by missionaries to the western style of life. Princess Lili'uokalani was especially fascinated with Queen Victoria and all things English. In 1861, when Queen Victoria's husband, Prince Albert died, she turned the already traditional gold jewelry adorned with black enamel into "mourning jewelry." Princess Lili'uokalani, when she learned of Prince Albert's death, commissioned similar mourning jewelry for herself. According to Philip Rickard, author of Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry, Princess Lili'uokalani had several bracelets made for herself, one was engraved with "Hoomanao Mau" ("Lasting Remembrance"); another, "R. Naiu" ("Royalty, the Lofty Ones") carved out in Victorian-style lettering, edged by black enamel.

Princess Lili'uokalani became Queen Lili'uokalani in 1862. Photographs of her wearing her bangle bracelets featuring the combination of English and Hawaiian styles crafted in gold with engraving and enamel work done in English scripts form the basis for today's Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry.

Queen Lili'uokani's once mourning jewelry also became a political statement when worn during the overthrow of Hawaii – a "lasting remembrance" of the monarchy. This trend carries on to this day.

Through the years local artisans have popularized patterns that give the jewelry a distinctive island look. The old English lettering remains traditional in Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. People of Hawaii commemorate life's milestones with gift of this type jewelry – retirements, graduations, birthdays, births, and wedding are just a few of the events that are celebrated with the gift of jewelry.

Traditional Hawaiian jewelry is usually crafted in yellow gold but sterling silver has become popular since it is more affordable for young buyers. The enamel work is still usually done in black but a variety of other colors are also available. Designs that reflect the Hawaiian culture such as the honu (sea turtle), dolphin, maile leaves, plumeria flowers, hibiscus flowers, and scroll designs have become popular as traditional styles are mixed with modern trends. Earrings, rings, pendants and anklets are popular gift items as consumers seek a variety of jewelry pieces.

Although modern jewelry-making techniques and designs have influenced the looks of Hawaiian jewelry today, the message has remained the same – a gift of Hawaiian jewelry is a gift of Aloha.